NDLI: Relative Importance of Four Muscle Groups for Indoor Rock Climbing Performance.

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Relative Importance of Four Muscle Groups for Indoor Rock Climbing Performance.

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Relative Importance of Four Muscle Groups for Indoor Rock Climbing Performance.

Content Provider	World Health Organization (WHO)-Global Index Medicus
Author	Deyhle, Michael R. Hsu, Hung-Sheng Fairfield, Timothy J. Cadez-Schmidt, Taryn L. Gurney, Burke A. Mermier, Christine M.
Description	Author Affiliation: Deyhle MR ( 1Department of Health, Exercise, and Sport Science, University of New Mexico, Albuquerque, New Mexico)
Abstract	Little research is available to guide training programs for rock climbers. To help meet this need, we sought to determine the relative importance of 4 muscle groups for rock climbing performance. Eleven male climbers were familiarized with an indoor climbing route before 5 separate days of testing. On testing days, subjects were randomly assigned to climb with no prefatiguing exercise (control climb) or after a prefatiguing exercise designed to specifically target the digit flexors (DF), shoulder adductors (SA), elbow flexors (EF), or lumbar flexors (LF). Immediately after the prefatiguing exercise, the subject climbed the route as far as possible without rest until failure. The number of climbing moves was recorded for each climb. Surface electromyography of the target muscles was recorded during the prefatigue. Fewer climbing moves were completed after prefatigue of the DF (50 ± 18%) and EF (78 ± 22%) (p ≤ 0.05) compared with the control climb. The number of moves completed after prefatigue of the LF and SA were not statistically significant compared with the control climb (p > 0.05). The short time lapse between the end of prefatiguing exercise and the start of climbing (transit time), which may have allowed for some recovery, was not different among trials (p > 0.05). Electromyography median frequency was reduced from beginning to end of each prefatiguing exercise. These results suggest that among the muscle groups studied in men, muscular endurance of DF and EF muscle groups is especially important for rock climbing on 40° overhanging terrain.
File Format	HTM / HTML
ISSN	10648011
Issue Number	7
Volume Number	29
e-ISSN	15334287
Journal	Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research
Language	English
Publisher	Lippincott Williams & Wilkins
Publisher Date	2015-07-01
Publisher Place	United States
Access Restriction	One Nation One Subscription (ONOS)
Subject Keyword	Discipline Sport Sciences Athletic Performance Physiology Muscle Fatigue Muscle, Skeletal Physical Endurance Adult Electromyography Humans Male Rest Journal Article Randomized Controlled Trial Research Support, Non-u.s. Gov't
Content Type	Text
Resource Type	Article
Subject	Orthopedics and Sports Medicine Physical Therapy, Sports Therapy and Rehabilitation Sports Science

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