NDLI: Spectral structure of breaking waves and its influence on the transport of sediments in coastal zone

Content Provider	IEEE Xplore Digital Library
Author	Kuznetsov, S. Saprykina, Y. Shtremel, M. Kuznetsova, O.
Copyright Year	2015
Description	Author affiliation: P.P. Shirshov Inst. of Oceanol., Moscow, Russia (Kuznetsov, S.; Saprykina, Y.; Shtremel, M.; Kuznetsova, O.)
Abstract	On the base of field and laboratory experiments it is shown that the waves breaking by plunging type (Pl) and by spilling type (Sp) are differed by the relation of amplitudes of the first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relation of amplitude of the second harmonic to the first one is significantly greater when the waves breaking by Sp type than at breaking by Pl type. The waves breaking by Pl type have the second harmonic shifted forward the first harmonic on π/2 and they have negative asymmetry coefficient and skewness near zero. In the waves breaking by Sp type, phase shift is equal zero, the asymmetry is near zero and waves are symmetrical relative to vertical axis. Skewness of spilling waves is not equal zero, they are not symmetrical relative to horizontal axis. According to Bailard's formula for discharge of sediments, waves (Pl breaking type) symmetrical on horizontal axis don't transport sediments, but waves symmetrical on vertical axis (Sp breaking type) transport deposits to the coast. Taking into account an undertow, waves breaking by Pl type will move deposits to the sea, and waves breaking by Sp type - to the coast.
Starting Page	1
Ending Page	6
File Size	1797547
Page Count	6
File Format	PDF
e-ISBN	9781479987368
DOI	10.1109/OCEANS-Genova.2015.7271347
Language	English
Publisher	Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers, Inc. (IEEE)
Publisher Date	2015-05-18
Publisher Place	Italy
Access Restriction	Subscribed
Rights Holder	Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers, Inc. (IEEE)
Subject Keyword	Harmonic analysis Sea measurements Sediments Discharges (electric) Dispersion Frequency measurement Extraterrestrial measurements coastal zone wave breaking spilling plunging
Content Type	Text
Resource Type	Article

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1	Ministry of Education (GoI), Department of Higher Education	Sanctioning Authority	https://www.education.gov.in/ict-initiatives
2	Indian Institute of Technology Kharagpur	Host Institute of the Project: The host institute of the project is responsible for providing infrastructure support and hosting the project	https://www.iitkgp.ac.in
3	National Digital Library of India Office, Indian Institute of Technology Kharagpur	The administrative and infrastructural headquarters of the project	Dr. B. Sutradhar bsutra@ndl.gov.in
4	Project PI / Joint PI	Principal Investigator and Joint Principal Investigators of the project	Dr. B. Sutradhar bsutra@ndl.gov.in Prof. Saswat Chakrabarti will be added soon
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