NDLI: Haemodynamic kinetics and intermittent finger flexor performance in rock climbers.

Content Provider	World Health Organization (WHO)-Global Index Medicus
Author	Fryer, S. Stoner, L. Lucero, A. Witter, T. Scarrott, C. Dickson, T. Cole, M. Draper, N.
Description	Country affiliation: United kingdom Author Affiliation: Fryer S ( School of Sport and Exercise, University of Gloucestershire, Gloucestershire, UK.); Stoner L ( School of Sport and Exercise, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand.); Lucero A ( School of Sport and Exercise, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand.); Witter T ( School of Sport and Exercise, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand.); Scarrott C ( Department of Maths and Statistics, University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand.); Dickson T ( School of Sport and Physical Education, University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand.); Cole M ( School of Sport and Exercise, University of Gloucestershire, Gloucestershire, UK.); Draper N ( School of Sport Performance and Outdoor Leadership, University of Derby, Buxton, United Kingdom.)
Abstract	Currently it is unclear whether blood flow (BF) or muscle oxidative capacity best governs performance during intermittent contractions to failure. The aim of this study was to determine oxygenation kinetics and BF responses during intermittent (10 s contraction: 3 s release) contractions at 40% of MVC in rock climbers of different ability (N=38). Total forearm BF, as well as de-oxygenation and re-oxygenation of the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) and the flexor carpi radialis (FCR) were assessed. Compared to the control, intermediate and advanced groups, the elite climbers had a significantly (p<0.05) greater force time integral (FTI), MVC and MVC/kg. Furthermore, the elite climbers de-oxygenated the FDP significantly more during the first (7.8, 11.9, 12.4 vs. 15.7 $O_{2}\%)$ and middle (7.3, 8.8, 10.4 vs.15.3 $O_{2}\%)$ phases of contractions as well as for the FCR during the first phase only (8.3, 7, 11.7 vs. 13.3 $O_{2}\%).$ They also had a significantly higher BF upon release of the contractions (656, 701, 764 vs. $971 mL ∙ min^{−1}).$ The higher FTI seen in elite climbers may be attributable to a greater blood delivery, and an enhanced $O_{2}$ recovery during the 3 s release periods, as well as a superior muscle oxidative capacity associated with the greater de-oxygenation during the 10 s contractions.
File Format	HTM / HTML
ISSN	01724622
Issue Number	2
Volume Number	36
e-ISSN	14393964
Journal	International Journal of Sports Medicine
Language	English
Publisher	Thieme
Publisher Date	2015-02-01
Publisher Place	Germany
Access Restriction	One Nation One Subscription (ONOS)
Subject Keyword	Discipline Sports Medicine Fingers Blood Supply Forearm Hemodynamics Mountaineering Physiology Muscle, Skeletal Adult Humans Isometric Contraction Male Oxygen Consumption Regional Blood Flow Journal Article
Content Type	Text
Resource Type	Article
Subject	Orthopedics and Sports Medicine Physical Therapy, Sports Therapy and Rehabilitation Sports Science

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