NDLI: Observations of bedforms on a dissipative macrotidal beach

Content Provider	Springer Nature Link
Author	Miles, Jon Thorpe, Antony Russell, Paul Masselink, Gerd
Copyright Year	2014
Abstract	Field measurements of wave ripples and megaripples were made with a Sand Ripple Profiler in the surf and shoaling zones of a sandy macrotidal dissipative beach at Perranporth, UK in depths 1–6 m and significant wave heights up to 2.2 m. A frequency domain partitioning approach allowed quantification of height (η), length (λ) and migration rate of ripples and megaripples. Wave ripples with heights up to 2 cm and wavelengths ∼20 cm developed in low orbital velocity conditions (u m < 0.65 m/s) with mobility number ψ < 25. Wave ripple heights decreased with increasing orbital velocity and were flattened when mean currents were >0.1 m/s. Wave ripples were superimposed on top of megaripples (η = 10 cm, λ = 1 m) and contributed up to 35 % of the total bed roughness. Large megaripples with heights up to 30 cm and lengths 1–1.8 m developed when the orbital velocity was 0.5–0.8 m/s, corresponding to mobility numbers 25–50. Megaripple heights and wavelengths increased with orbital velocity but reduced when mean current strengths were >0.15 m/s. Wave ripple and megaripple migrations were generally onshore directed in the shoaling and surf zones. Onshore ripple migration rates increased with onshore-directed (+ve) incident wave skewness. The onshore migration rate reduced as offshore-directed mean flows (undertow) increased in strength and reached zero when the offshore-directed mean flow was >0.15 m/s. The migration pattern was therefore linked to cross-shore position relative to the surf zone, controlled by competition between onshore-directed velocity skewness and offshore-directed mean flow.
Starting Page	225
Ending Page	239
Page Count	15
File Format	PDF
ISSN	16167341
Journal	Deutsche Hydrografische Zeitschrift
Volume Number	64
Issue Number	2
e-ISSN	16167228
Language	English
Publisher	Springer Berlin Heidelberg
Publisher Date	2014-01-11
Publisher Place	Berlin, Heidelberg
Access Restriction	One Nation One Subscription (ONOS)
Subject Keyword	Surf zone ripples megaripples ripple migration Sand Ripple Profiler dissipative beach Oceanography Geophysics/Geodesy Atmospheric Sciences Fluid- and Aerodynamics Environmental Monitoring/Analysis
Content Type	Text
Resource Type	Article
Subject	Oceanography

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1	Ministry of Education (GoI), Department of Higher Education	Sanctioning Authority	https://www.education.gov.in/ict-initiatives
2	Indian Institute of Technology Kharagpur	Host Institute of the Project: The host institute of the project is responsible for providing infrastructure support and hosting the project	https://www.iitkgp.ac.in
3	National Digital Library of India Office, Indian Institute of Technology Kharagpur	The administrative and infrastructural headquarters of the project	Dr. B. Sutradhar bsutra@ndl.gov.in
4	Project PI / Joint PI	Principal Investigator and Joint Principal Investigators of the project	Dr. B. Sutradhar bsutra@ndl.gov.in Prof. Saswat Chakrabarti will be added soon
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