NDLI: Non-Planar Beaches: Wave-Induced Setup/Setdown and Longshore Current

Content Provider	IEEE Xplore Digital Library
Author	McDougal, W.G. Hudspeth, R.T.
Copyright Year	1981
Description	Author affiliation: Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon, USA (McDougal, W.G.)
Abstract	Wave-induced setup/setdown and longshore currents are examined theoretically for non-planar, concave-up beaches. A beach profile in which the stillwater-depth is proportional to the horizontal distance offshore raised to the 2/3 power is examined in detail. The total mean-water-depth, which includes the sum of the still-water-depth for this 2/3 power beach profile plus the wave-induced setup/setdown, may be approximated shoreward of the breaker zone in a best least-squares sense by a profile that is proportional to the horizontal distance offshore raised to the 1/2 power. The longshore current profile for this non-planar beach is found to differ significantly from that predicted analytically for a planar beach. The longshore current velocity does not vanish at the shoreline as in the planar beach case and, thus, yields an estimate for the mean longshore swash velocity. In addition, the peak velocities and the total longshore transport of water are found to be less than for the corresponding planar beach cases.
Starting Page	834
Ending Page	840
File Size	479214
Page Count	7
File Format	PDF
DOI	10.1109/OCEANS.1981.1151548
Language	English
Publisher	Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers, Inc. (IEEE)
Publisher Date	1981-09-16
Publisher Place	USA
Access Restriction	Subscribed
Rights Holder	Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers, Inc. (IEEE)
Subject Keyword	Storms Sediments Stress Grain size Sea level Energy dissipation Energy states Gravity Rain Temperature dependence
Content Type	Text
Resource Type	Article

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